Bernat Satin Leg Warmers
Wear These Crocheted Leg Warmers Underneath Your Pajamas for Extra Warmth
Photo by Patrice Walker
Yarn Over, Pull Through
Thank you to all those who let me know about the printing problems. I think the "Print Friendly" code is working again. Not sure what the problem was but it should be working now. Let me know if you still run into issues.
And you can still right click and select print. It will give you a clean ad-free layout of the page. After you select print you can change the destination in the top left and save it as a PDF, fax it, or send it to your Google Drive. :)
You can make these leg warmers any length that you want simply by repeating the pattern rows. You can also increase or decrease the circumference by doing more of the ribbing rows. And if you have problems with them falling down, the pattern provides instructions on how to make the ribbing smaller than the rest of the warmer.
I used Bernat Satin, but you can basically use any worsted weight yarn that you have on hand. The yarn is actually not the best yarn for this project because it doesn't have much stretch to it. A more suitable yarn would be Patons Canadiana.
The pattern is worked from the bottom up. It is very simple to crochet, but it has somewhat a lacy look to it. For a step-by-step tutorial on how to do the top ribbing click here.
This Pattern Was Tested By:
Thank you so much for taking time out of your busy schedule in order to help me with this pattern. You were a big help with this pattern, and I look forward to working with you again in the future.
Skill Level: Easy
Yarn: Bernat Satin Yarn, 2 3.5-oz./100gr balls. (Or any worsted weight yarn that you like)
Hook Size: H/8-5.00MM
Gauge: 2 inches across 8sc/dc sts and over 8 ribbing rows.
Finished size: 16 inches long and 9 inches in circumference.
For a custom fit:
- In order to determine the circumference, measure just below the knee or wherever you want the leg warmer to come up to. This should work out for the rest of the leg as the warmer will stretch a bit. However, if you have large calves (like me), then you might want to add extra stitches at the end of the ribbing rows in rnd 1. You can basically add any amount as long as they are in multiples of 3 and spread out evenly throughout the round. Then when you do the last (top) ribbing, you will have to skip the same amount of stitches as you increased earlier in order to have the same number of rows as there are in the bottom ribbing.
- Another thing that you can do is to use a larger hook once you start working on the legwarmer body.
- Increase or decrease the amount of ribbing rows in multiples of 3 in order to obtain a desired circumference.
- As for the length, simply increase or decrease the amount of pattern repeats as desired.
Bl/bls = Back Loop/Back Loops
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Dc = Double Crochet
FO = Fasten Off
Lp/Lps = Loops/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Working Lengthwise - (Bottom Ribbing)
Row 1: Ch 9, 1 sc in second ch from hook and in next 7 chs. Turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2-36: Working in bls only, ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. (8 sts) After last row, ch 1, join bls of last row to free lps on beginning chs with sl sts.
Working in the Round - (Leg Warmer Body)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in end of each row around. Join with sl st to 1st sc. (36 sc) Do not turn at the end of this and succeeding rounds.
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in next sc and in each sc around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (36 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc and in each dc around. Join with sl st to 1st sc. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, *ch 3, sk next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * around to last 2 sts, ch 3, sk last 2 sts. Join with sl st in first sc. (12 lps)
Row 5: Sl st into lp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same lp, 3 dc in next lp and in each lp around. Join with sl st in top of ch-3. (36 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st and in each dc around. (36 sts)
Rep rnds 2-6 another 5 times, or as many times as you need to reach 2 inches from your desired length.
Working lengthwise - (Top Ribbing)
Row 1: Ch 9, 1 sc in second ch from hook and in next 7 chs, sl st in next 2 corresponding sc sts on the last rnd. Turn.
Row 2: DO NOT ch 1. Working in bls only, 1 sc in next 8 sc lengthwise. Turn.
Row 3: Working in bls only, ch 1, 1 sc in next 8 sc, sl st in next 2 corresponding sc on the last rnd. Turn.
Rows 4-36: Rep rows 2 and 3, ending with row 2. After last row, join bls of last row to free lps on beginning chs with sl sts. FO. Weave in ends.
Note: If you added more stitches at the end of the bottom ribbing rows, then you will have to skip that many sts (evenly throughout the round) when slip stitching into the last rnd while doing your top ribbing rows. This will help to ensure that you end up with the same number of ribbing rows as you have in the bottom ribbing.