Bernat Satin Leg Warmers
You can make these legwarmers any length that you want simply by repeating the pattern rows. You can also increase or decrease the circumference by doing more of the ribbing rows. And if you have problems with them falling down, the pattern provides instructions on how to make the ribbing smaller than the rest of the warmer.
I used Bernat Satin, but you can basically use any worsted weight yarn that you have on hand. The pattern is worked from the bottom up, and is very simple, but it has somewhat a lacy look to it.
This Pattern Was Tested By:
Thank you so much for taking time out of your busy schedule in order to help me with this pattern. You were a big help with this pattern, and I look forward to working with you again in the future.
Skill Level: Easy
Materials:
Yarn: Bernat Satin Yarn, 2 3.5-oz./100gr balls. (Or any worsted weight yarn that you like)
Hook Size: H/8-5.00MM
Gauge: 2 inches across 8sc/dc sts and over 8 ribbing rows.
Finished size: 16 inches long and 9 inches in circumference.
For a custom fit:
- In order to determine the circumference, measure just below the knee or wherever you want the leg warmer to come up to. This should work out for the rest of the leg as the warmer will stretch a bit. However, if you have large calves (like me), then you might want to add extra stitches at the end of the ribbing rows in rnd 1. You can basically add any amount as long as they are in multiples of 3 and spread out evenly throughout the round. Then when you do the last (top) ribbing, you will have to skip the same amount of stitches as you increased earlier in order to have the same number of rows as there are in the bottom ribbing.
- Another thing that you can do is to use a larger hook once you start working on the legwarmer body.
- Increase or decrease the amount of ribbing rows in multiples of 3 in order to obtain a desired circumference.
- As for the length, simply increase or decrease the amount of pattern repeats as desired.
Abbreviations:
Bl/bls = Back Loop/Back Loops
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Dc = Double Crochet
FO = Fasten Off
Lp/Lps = Loops/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Instructions:
Make 2
Working Lengthwise - (Bottom Ribbing)
Row 1: Ch 9, 1 sc in second ch from hook and in next 7 chs. Turn. (8 sc)
Rows 2-36: Working in bls only, ch 1, 1 sc in each sc across. Turn. (8 sts) After last row, ch 1, join bls of last row to free lps on beginning chs with sl sts.
Working in the Round - (Leg Warmer Body)
Rnd 1: Ch 1, 1 sc in end of each row around. Join with sl st to 1st sc. (36 sc) Do not turn at the end of this and succeeding rounds.
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), 1 dc in next sc and in each sc around. Join with sl st to top of ch-3. (36 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, 1 sc in first dc and in each dc around. Join with sl st to 1st sc. (36 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, 1 sc in first st, *ch 3, sk next 2 sc, 1 sc in next sc, rep from * around to last 2 sts, ch 3, sk last 2 sts. Join with sl st in first sc. (12 lps)
Row 5: Sl st into lp, ch 3 (counts as first dc), 2 dc in same lp, 3 dc in next lp and in each lp around. Join with sl st in top of ch-3. (36 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, 1 sc in the first st and in each dc around. (36 sts)
Rep rnds 2-6 another 5 times, or as many times as you need to reach 2 inches from your desired length.
Working lengthwise - (Top Ribbing)
Row 1: Ch 9, 1 sc in second ch from hook and in next 7 chs, sl st in next 2 corresponding sc sts on the last rnd. Turn.
Row 2: DO NOT ch 1. Working in bls only, 1 sc in next 8 sc lengthwise. Turn.
Row 3: Working in bls only, ch 1, 1 sc in next 8 sc, sl st in next 2 corresponding sc on the last rnd. Turn.
Rows 4-36: Rep rows 2 and 3, ending with row 2. After last row, join bls of last row to free lps on beginning chs with sl sts. FO. Weave in ends.
Note: If you added more stitches at the end of the bottom ribbing rows, then you will have to skip that many sts (evenly throughout the round) when slip stitching into the last rnd while doing your top ribbing rows. This will help to ensure that you end up with the same number of ribbing rows as you have in the bottom ribbing.
