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Guide To Selecting the Right Seams, Needle and Thread

Fabric Type Fabric Seams Needle Size Thread
Sheers Organdy, Organza, Voile, Batiste, Chiffon, China Silk, Georgette, Guaze French,
Mock French,
Self-bound,
Double-stitched
9 (65),
11 (75)
Extra fine:
Mercerized cotton,
Cotton-covered polyester,
Long-fiber polyester
Lightweight Silk shirtings, Broadcloth, Calico, Chambray, Lightweight linens, Balzarine, Brilliantine, Charmeuse, Eyelit, Seersucker French,
Mock French,
Self-bound,
Double-stitched,
Stitched and pinked
9 (65),
11 (75)
Extra fine:
Mercerized cotton,
Cotton-covered polyester,
Long-fiber polyester
Light to mediumweight knits Tricot, Jerseys, Interlocks, Light sweater knits, Stretch terry, Stretch velour Double-stitched,
Straight and zigzag,
Narrow zigzag
Ballpoint:
11 (75),
14 (90)
All-purpose:
Cotton/Polyester,
Long-fiber polyester
Mediumweight Chino, Chintz, Corduroy, Crepe, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Poplin, Velvet, Velveteen, Velour, Taffeta, Double knits, Sweatshirt knits, Denim, Quilted Fabric Plain seam,
Welt,
Lapped,
Mock flat-fell,
Ballpoint:
11 (75),
14 (90)
All-purpose:
Cotton/Polyester,
Long-fiber polyester
Medium to heavyweight Heavy wool flannel, Fleece, Fake fur, Canvas, Heavy Denim, Heavy cotton duck, Upholstery Fabrics Welt,
Lapped,
Mock flat-fell,
Flat-fell,
Stitched and pinked
16 (100)
18 (110)
Hevay-duty:
Cotton/Polyester,
Long-fiber polyester,
Topstitching and buttonhole twist,
Carpet thread
Non-Woven Leather, Suede, Plastic, Felt, Vinyl Plain seam,
Welt,
Lapped,
Mock flat-fell,
Topstiched
11 (75)
14 (90),
16 (100)
All-purpose:
Long-fiber polyester,
Carpet thread,
Cotton-wrapped polyester, (not suitable for leather)
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