Guide To Selecting the Right Seams, Needle and Thread
| Fabric Type | Fabric | Seams | Needle Size | Thread |
| Sheers | Organdy, Organza, Voile, Batiste, Chiffon, China Silk, Georgette, Guaze | French, Mock French, Self-bound, Double-stitched |
9 (65), 11 (75) |
Extra fine: Mercerized cotton, Cotton-covered polyester, Long-fiber polyester |
| Lightweight | Silk shirtings, Broadcloth, Calico, Chambray, Lightweight linens, Balzarine, Brilliantine, Charmeuse, Eyelit, Seersucker | French, Mock French, Self-bound, Double-stitched, Stitched and pinked |
9 (65), 11 (75) |
Extra fine: Mercerized cotton, Cotton-covered polyester, Long-fiber polyester |
| Light to mediumweight knits | Tricot, Jerseys, Interlocks, Light sweater knits, Stretch terry, Stretch velour |
Double-stitched, Straight and zigzag, Narrow zigzag |
Ballpoint: 11 (75), 14 (90) |
All-purpose: Cotton/Polyester, Long-fiber polyester |
| Mediumweight | Chino, Chintz, Corduroy, Crepe, Wool Flannel, Gabardine, Poplin, Velvet, Velveteen, Velour, Taffeta, Double knits, Sweatshirt knits, Denim, Quilted Fabric | Plain seam, Welt, Lapped, Mock flat-fell, |
Ballpoint: 11 (75), 14 (90) |
All-purpose: Cotton/Polyester, Long-fiber polyester |
| Medium to heavyweight | Heavy wool flannel, Fleece, Fake fur, Canvas, Heavy Denim, Heavy cotton duck, Upholstery Fabrics | Welt, Lapped, Mock flat-fell, Flat-fell, Stitched and pinked |
16 (100) 18 (110) |
Hevay-duty: Cotton/Polyester, Long-fiber polyester, Topstitching and buttonhole twist, Carpet thread |
| Non-Woven | Leather, Suede, Plastic, Felt, Vinyl | Plain seam, Welt, Lapped, Mock flat-fell, Topstiched |
11 (75) 14 (90), 16 (100) |
All-purpose: Long-fiber polyester, Carpet thread, Cotton-wrapped polyester, (not suitable for leather) |
