Sewing With Satin
Satin fabric is made using the satin weave which creates a soft, shiny and slippery fabric. Although there are many uses for satin, its most popular use is in bridal, and wedding wear.
Satin is more difficult to work with and extra precautions must be made to create a professional look, and to ensure the fabric doesn't loose its elegance. Here are some guidelines to follow when sewing with satin.
Marking and cutting:
1. Be careful not to get any creases into the fabric as these are difficult, if not impossible to get out. When storing the fabric neatly fold, or roll it up loosely to to prevent creases from forming.
2. The light reflects differently from different angles of the fabric, so be sure to always use the 'with nap' to keep the fabric shine consistent.
3. Satin is slippery and difficult to keep in place while cutting; to prevent this from happening, pin the edges down on tissue paper with fine satin pins.
4. Because satin snags easy, you should always use fine pins designed for satin fabrics, and your scissors should also be sharp and of good quality.
5. Pinning satin can leave permanent holes in the fabric, so make sure to only place pins within the seam allowance.
6. Always make your markings on the wrong side of the fabric either with an air soluble marking pen, or tailors chalk. Never use a water soluble marker, which can leave spots, nor should you use a tracing wheel which can leave unwanted holes or snags.
7. Pleats and tucks may be press marked with the pattern piece still pinned to the fabric.
Sewing:
1. Use an extra fine, mercerized cotton, cotton covered polyester, or 100% polyester long staple thread.
2. Use a standard needle size 9-11 (65-75).
3. Change your needle frequently to avoid snagging of the fabric.
4. Set your stitches to about 10-15 stitches per inch.
5. Increase the pressure on the presser foot, or hold the fabric down firmly to prevent it from sliding during sewing.
6. Use silk thread when basting, because it will leave the least amount of markings on the fabric.
7. Satin should not be worn tight. Line or underline fitted bodices and skirts to reduce the strain on the seams.
Pressing:
1. When pressing always test on a scrap piece of fabric.
2. Never use steam, but always use a dry iron to prevent water spotting.
3. Press on the wrong side of fabric whenever possible. When necessary to press on the right side, always use a pressing cloth to avoid ruining the fabric.
4. Be careful not to over press satin, as this could ruin the fabric.
5. Seams should never be pressed flat because satin is meant to have a softer look around the seams.
6. Use a seam roll, or place a piece of paper underneath the seam edges to avoid seam impressions on the right side of the fabric.
Finishing:
1. When hemming satin you can make a rolled hem by hand or by machine, or you can use an interfaced hem which you can also do by hand.
2. Rolled hems should be used for curved areas and a french seam is great for straight seams.
3. Use sew-in woven or non-woven interfacing. You can also use organza or organdy for lightweight satins.
4. When finishing seams with a serger, use lightweight thread, or wooly nylon to prevent thread imprints on the right side of the fabric.
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