Working on Opposite Side of Chain
This photo tutorial is all about working on the opposite side of your starting chains, also known as the free loops of the starting chains.
The way it works is you crochet into the chains as you normally would, and instead of turning to crochet into the stitches that you just made, you turn so that you work into the loops underneath the stitches you just made.
This technique can be used to create ovals and rectangles, depending on how you make your increases.
For a rectangle, find your four corners, then increase at each corner to keep them sharp and flat. Too many stitches can make the corners ruffle, and too few can make them curl up.
As a general rule, for single crochet stitches, I normally go with 3 stitches at each corner. For taller stitches such as the double crochet or triple crochet, you could go with 4-5 stitches.
For an oval, you’ll need to place your increases evenly on the two ends so they remain flat. Instead of working your increases at the corners, you’ll need to fan them out along the short edge for a beautiful rounded shape.
Crocheting into both sides of the starting chains is an excellent way to start a pair of slippers, a floor mat, or bag bottoms. As a matter of fact, nearly all my crochet bag patterns use this method.
Tips
Although crocheting into the opposite side of the starting chains is fairly easy to do, having a few tricks up your sleeve and knowing where to insert your hook can make a huge difference to ensure that your rectangle is even and that you have the correct stitch count.
- Place stitch markers to mark your stitches whenever you are unsure of where the next stitch goes. If you don’t have stitch markers, use a safety pin or even a strand of yarn.
- I make my joining slip stitches tight to reduce the appearance of a seam. Joining the rounds tightly also helps to maintain the perfect shape of either a rectangle or an oval.
Working On Opposite Side Of Chain
- Step 1: The first step is to make a chain. This can be any number that you want or as specified by the pattern.
- Step 2: Your chains are basically made up of three loops: The bottom loop, top loop, and the back bump.You can insert your hook into the top loop only, leaving two free loops on the opposite side. You can insert your hook under the top and the bottom loops, leaving only the back bump as your free loop on the opposite side. Lastly, and my personal preference, I prefer to go under the top loop and the back bump. It really doesn't matter as long as you are consistent.
- This image shows the hook under the top loop and the back bump of the chain.
- Step 3:For single crochet and half double crochet stitches, work your first stitch into the second chain from the hook. The skipped chains do not count as a stitch.For double crochets, work into the third or fourth chain, depending on whether the skipped chains count as a stitch.If you double crochet into the 3rd chain, do not count the skipped chains as a stitch. If you double crochet into the 4th ch, count the skipped chains as your first double crochet.
- The image below shows the single crochet made. You might want to mark this stitch so that you know exactly where to join the round later.
- Step 4: Single crochet across to the last chain.
- Step 5: Now, depending on the pattern, you might crochet anywhere from 3-5 (or more) stitches into the last chain.Then you'll need to turn your work and crochet into the opposite side of your chains.What I like to do is make my turn halfway through working the end stitches. In this case, I will be working 3 single crochet stitches into the last chain. I make my first 2 stitches in the last chain.The image shows the first 2 single crochet stitches worked in the last chain.
- Then I turn my work upside down and finish off the remaining stitches, which in this case is 1 single crochet. It's hard to tell, but there are 3 stitches made in the last chain. At this point you can begin to crochet over your tail end so you don't have to weave it in later.
- Step 6: Now you are ready to work into the free loops of the beginning chains. The stitch marker is moved to the first free loop that you need to work into.
- Step 7: Continue to single crochet into each free loop of beginning chains up to the last loop. Patterns will vary at this stage, but in this case you will work another 2 single crochet stitches into the last free loop. That way you have 3 stitches on each end.
- The last 2 single crochet stitches made.
- Step 8: Your next step is to join the last stitch to the very first single crochet stitch that you made in the round. Basically, insert your hook into the first stitch, yarn over and pull through. I like to pull my slip stitch nice and tight in order to reduce the appearance of a seam.
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Thank you for the crochet oval tutorial. Some folks are good at teaching crochet techniques and others are definitely not. You’re one of the good ones. I got a proper oval first time around, and without pulling any of my gray hairs out! Thanks again. Janine Pryor
Thank you for the feedback Janine. :)
This is the best tutorial/instructions I’ve found on oval shapes (and I’ve looked at a few!). Now i understand *why* I put the stitches in certain places instead of just trying to count blindly. Thank you so much for making this available!
This is awesome! I started an Afghan this way but how do I square it out? I’ve been doing 3 D.C. In each corner and it’s not quite squaring out it’s more like an oval with edges.
Hi Stacie, You would need to do at least 4-5 dc in each corner to make it square.
Completely odd question. Are you taking the pictures on the seat of your car?
It’s just something I would do. Picking the girls up from school, I have to be there 30 minutes early to get a parking space, bored out of my mind and I think – Hey let’s do a tutorial.
Yes, I did several in the car.. had better lighting out there lol.
I wish you had kept the stitch marker in. I can’t see where the beginnings are . I found it a bit hard to understand. probably just me but leaving a stitch marker in would help a lot
Sorry about that.. I’ll try and remember your feedback for future tutorials. Thank you :)
I HAVE BEEN LOOKING ON “LINE” TO LEARN HOW TO CROCHET… SOMETIMES THE VIDEOS ARE NOT TOO CLEAR AND THEY DON’T HAVE A WRITTEN DESCRIPTION.
YOU WRITTEN DESCRIPTIONS AND PICTURES ARE EXCELLENT. THANK YOU FOR SHARING WITH ME; I’M 82 YEARS OLD AND ENJOYING MY PAST TWO YEARS RETIREMENT BY LEARNING HOW TO CROCHET AND MAKE “BAGS” ..
MANY THANKS.
KAROLINE