The texture of the criss-cross reversible bag looks great on both sides – hence the name. The only thing is you’ll need to decide which side you like best for when you put the bag lining in. Some bags you can get away with not lining, but for this bag, I would highly recommend that you do. For one, it’s very stretchy and not lining it will ruin the textures overtime. Two, it’s already fairly tall, so you don’t want it to stretch any longer.
Criss-Cross Reversible Bag ~ FREE Crochet Pattern
Skill Level: Easy
Materials: Red Heart Soft Touch (Two 5oz. balls)
Yarn: Red Heart Soft Touch or any Worsted Weight yarn. (Two 5oz balls)
Crochet Hook: H/8-5.00mm
Gauge: 2″ over 8 sc sts
Finished Size: When laying flat it measures 14″ wide and 13″ high.
Abbreviations:
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Fl = Front Loop
FO = Fasten Off
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Criss-Cross Reversible Bag:
Rnd 1: Ch 24, sc in 2nd ch from hook and in next 21 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting chs, sc in free lps of next 21 chs, 2 sc in last ch; join with sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in same st as join, *sc in next 21 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st*, 3 sc in next st; rep from * to * once; join with sl st to first sc. (56 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 23 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 2 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (64 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next st, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 25 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 3 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 4 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 3 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 29 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 5 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (88 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 4 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 11 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 6 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (96 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 5 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 13 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 7 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (104 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 6 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 35 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 15 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 8 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (112 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (112 sts) Turn.
Rnd 11: Working in fl only, ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st in first sc. Turn.
Rnd 12: Ch 1, sk first st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st; *sk next st, hdc in next st, hdc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first hdc. Turn.
Rnds 13-42: Rep rnds 11 & 12.
Rnd 43: Same as rnd 11.
Handle Rounds
Lay the bag flat and count off 20 sts at the center on each side. Place stitch markers at each side of these 20 sts. Stitch markers should line up evenly on both sides. Counting the marked stitches you should have 36 stitches along the folded edge. See image below:
Note: The single crochet stitch always looks best from the right side. So if you prefer to use the “Wrong Side” as the outside of the bag, you can turn your work and follow the same instructions in Rnd 44.
Rnd 44: Ch 1, sc into each st up first st marker, *ch 80, sk the marked st, sk next 20 sts and the next marked st*, sc in next st and into each st up to next st marker; rep from * to * once; sc in remaining sts; join with sl st in first sc. (68 sts and 160 chs) Do Not Turn at this round or at the following rounds.
Rnd 45: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st and ch around; join with sl st in first sc. (228 sts)
Rnd 46: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in same st as join, *sk next st, (sc, ch 1) in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc. (114 sc sts)
Rnds 47-49: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in same st as join and into each sc st around; join with sl st in first sc. (114 sc sts)
Rnd 50: Ch 1, sc into same st as join and into each st and into each ch around; join with sl st in first sc. (228 sts) FO.
Hello,
Thank you for the lovely pattern. A question – on round 3 it says sc in next 3 sts. Should it be 3 sc in next st instead?
Thank you.
Hi Alida,
I believe the pattern is correct, because you are working those stitches along the end between the two corners… let me know if that helps or if you have any other questions..
Thanks so much,
rhelena
Under the abbreviation list you mention front loop. In row 1 of the instructions you mention free loop. Are they the same Thing? If not, what is the difference?
No they are two different things.. when you insert your hook to crochet into a stitch you generally go under two loops, these are the front and back loops (the front being the closest to you.) The free loops is when you work into the starting chain… so you crochet across to the end of the chain, and then you turn your work and crochet into the free loops (the remaining loops visible from the starting chains.) This allows you to work in the round and results in a rectangular or oval shape.