These striped leg warmers can be adjusted to fit any size from baby to adult. They have a nice bobbled texture that looks good in stripes. They are modeled on a 6 month in the image below.
I chose two colors for this design, and you have two options on how to work the colors. The pattern is given so that the bobbled stripes are worked in the same color as the ribbing. However, you have the option to work only the bobbles in a different color. Or, go with a solid color. Either way, these crocheted leg warmers are comfy and cozy for the cold winter weather.
Since they are so easy to adjust in size, you can basically use any yarn and hook size that you have on hand. I used an acrylic baby yarn, but you can just as easy use a regular worsted weight, a chunky yarn, or even a fingering yarn if you like.
Baby Striped Leg Warmers
This pattern has been updated to include a video tutorial below the pattern. The pattern provided is for the color design as below.
Skill Level: Easy
- Yarn: Bernat Baby Sport (Light, #3; 100% acrylic; 300g/10.5oz) 2 colors. 1 ball each. (You only need a small amount of each color)
- Crochet Hook: G 4.00mm
- Other: Measuring Tape, Scissors, Yarn Needle, Stitch Markers
Ribbing gauge: 1″ across 5 sts and 1.5″ over 7 ribbing rows.
Pattern gauge: 2″ across 8 sts and over pattern rounds 3-9.
Circumference over ribbing is just over 5″
Circumference over the body is just over 6″
Length is just under 6.5″
CA = Color A
CB = Color B
Bead St = Bead St
Blsc = Back Loop Single Crochet
Ch = Chain
Dc = Double Crochet
FO = Fasten Off
Hk = Hook
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitch Instructions
Bead St: Insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through one lp on hk) twice, yo and pull through both lps on hk. When you work into the next stitch make sure the bobble is facing.
- Carry unused yarn up at each round.
- The legwarmer is worked in one piece starting with the bottom ribbing. Both the bottom and top ribbing rows are worked lengthwise, whereas the body is worked in rounds. Here is a tutorial on how to join the top ribbing.
- If you need to make them wider, simply increase the number of ribbing rows in multiples of two. If you need them longer do more repeats of rounds 3-6.
Row 1: With CA, ch 7, sc in second ch from hk and into next 5 chs. Turn. [6 sc]
Rows 2-24: Ch 1, blsc in each sc across. Turn. [6 sts] Note: Increase in a multiple of 2 for a custom fit.
Ch 1 and join the ribbing rows by slip stitching the last row to the free lps of starting chs.
Working in the Round
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc 24 sts evenly around; join with sl st in first sc. Do Not Turn at this or the following rounds. [24 sts]
Rnd 2: Ch 1, bead st in same st as join, sc in next st, *work bead st in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around; with CB, join with sl st in first bead st. [12 bead sts and 12 sc]
Rnd 3: With CB, ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. [24 sc]
Rnd 4: Ch 2 (does not count as st), dc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first dc. [24 dc]
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; with CA, join with sl st in first sc. [24 sc]
Rnd 6: With CA, ch 1, bead st in same st as join, sc in next st, *work bead st in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around; with CB, join with sl st in first bead st. [12 bead sts and 12 sc]
Rnds 7-14: Repeat rnds 3-6 twice, omitting color change at Rnd 14.
Rnd 15: Continue with CA, ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st in first sc. Do not FO, but continue with top ribbing.
Row 1: Ch 7, sc in second ch from hk and into next 5 chs, working into Rnd 15, sl st in same st as join and into next sc. Place marker into next sc to mark next sl st (optional). Turn. [6 sts]
Row 2: Do Not ch 1. Working into ribbing rows, blsc in next 6 sc lengthwise. Turn. [6 sts]
Row 3: Ch 1, blsc in next 6 sc, sl st into next 2 sc of Rnd 15. Turn. [6 sts]
Rows 4-24: Rep rows 2 and 3, ending with row 2.
Join the ribbing rows by slip stitching the last row to the free lps of starting chs. FO.
To work this color design work all your stitches the same color as the ribbing, changing color only for the rounds with the bead stitches.
I made these for a precious little boy and thus left them plain. But if you want to make them for a baby girl, you could add a cute button or another applique.
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If you are making these baby leg warmers for a baby shower, you may want to pair it up with more baby patterns.