These chunky crochet boot cuffs not only add a nice layer of warmth around the top of your boots, but they are also quick to crochet with only a small amount of yarn.
They make for a nice last-minute gift for anyone living in super cold climates. And if you like to crochet for craft fairs and small shops, this is an excellent pattern to turn to.
How Do You Wear Boot Cuffs?
Boot cuffs are worn at the top of the boots, with about half the cuff inside the boot and the other half sticking out above the boot. This creates a solid barrier between the boots and the legs to prevent any cold drafts from entering your boots.
They can be worn with tall or short boots. My calves are big, so I am not able to find a high pair of boots that fit me, let alone with chunky cuffs such as these. But I like to wear them with ankle boots as an extra layer of warmth underneath my pant legs.
Regardless of your boot height, you can fold them over the boots. This won’t be as warm, but this way if you’re doing a lot of walking, you know they won’t slide down.
How Do You Make Boot Cuffs?
This boot cuff pattern is a simple pattern for those who have mastered the basics.
You start off with 8 chains, then single crochet into the 2nd chain from the hook and into each chain across. You should have 7 stitches. You can adjust this in any number for a wider or narrower ribbing.
Continue to work your rows in single crochets, but work only into the back loops of the stitches. This technique gives you a nice texture and stretch for the ribbing.
Continue the ribbing rows until you have the circumference that you need, provided you end with a multiple of 4 to keep things even for the body. I went with 24 rows, but any multiple or 4 will work to fit any size from a baby to an adult XL.
Next, you join the last row worked to the free loops of the first row. To avoid excess bulk, I like to catch the back loop only of the last row.
The seam is worked from the wrong side. So before you begin crocheting in the round, you’ll want to turn the ribbing to the right side out, as shown below. Once turned, the seam is next to invisible!
Counting each end of the ribbing row as a stitch, single crochet into each stitch around. I made 24 ribbing rows, so naturally, I have 24 stitches in my first round.
For added texture, I did one round of single crochets worked around the back bumps of the first round.
Then, the clustered v’s are worked for the next three rounds. To make the v-stitch, work a double crochet two together, chain two, and another double crochet two together into the stitch or space.
For the first round, skip 3 stitches in between each cluster v-stitch. After that work 1 cluster v-stitch into each v-stitch of previous round.
The final round is an even round of single crochet stitches. I stopped after three rounds of the v-stitches, but you could easily continue for a pair of legwarmers if you wanted to.
How Long Should Boot Cuffs Be?
For adults, anything between 4-7 inches is a good length, depending on how you want to wear them. I made mine to 7 inches long, so there’s enough length to fold it over. But if you don’t want to fold if over you can make it shorter with only 1 or 2 rounds of the v-stitches.
For kids aim around the 3-5 inch mark in terms of the length.
The circumference can be adjusted in a multiple of four. You can make them slightly smaller than your calves to ensure a better fit. Here is a complete size chart for boot cuffs to use as a reference.
What Yarn Can I Use?
I used Loops and Threads Charisma, which is a nice chunky weight yarn, perfect for winter projects. But any similar yarn should work just as well.
You could also make this with another yarn weight as well and make the necessary adjustments to get the size you want.
See More Free Crochet Boot Cuff Patterns
- Free Crochet Boot Cuffs Patterns
- Simple Boot Cuffs
- Thermal Boot Cuffs
- Charisma Boot Cuffs
- Alternating Crochet Boot Cuffs
Clustered V-Stitch Chunky Crochet Boot Cuffs
- Yarn: Loops and Threads Charisma (Bulky Weight, #5; 100% Acrylic; 109 yds/3.5; 100m/100g) Color: Electric Blue, 1 ball
- Crochet Hook: 8.00mm
- Other: Measuring Tape, Scissors, Yarn Needle.
- Gauge: 8 sc sts = 3.75".
- Finished Size: 11" circumference by 7" high.
- Beg Cl = Beginning Cluster
- Blsc = Back Loop Single Crochet
- Bpsc = Back Post Single Crochet
- Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
- Cl = Cluster
- Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
- Rep = Repeat
- Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
- Sc = Single Crochet
- Sl St = Slip Stitch
- Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
- St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
- YO = Yarn Over
- Crochet Abbreviations explained in more details.
Special Stitch Instructions
- Beg Cl: Ch 2, yo and insert hook into st/sp, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] twice.
- Cl: [Yo and insert hook into st/sp, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps] twice, (3 lps on hook) yo and pull through all 3 lps.
- Row 1: Ch 8, sc in 2nd ch from hook and into each ch across. Turn. [7 sc]
- Rows 2-24: Ch 1, blsc in first st and into each st across. Turn. [7 sts] Continue with this row until you have reached a desired circumference making sure the final row count is a multiple of 4.
- Ch 1 and join the ribbing rows by slip stitching the last row to the free loops of starting chains.
Working in the Round
- Rnd 1: This round is worked along the ribbing edge. Ch 1, sc into end of first ribbing row, and into each ribbing row around; join with sl st in first sc. [24 sts]
- Rnd 2: Ch 1, bpsc in the same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first bpsc.
- Rnd 3: (Beg cl, ch 2, cl) in same st as join, *skip next 3 sts, (cl, ch2, cl) in next st; rep from * around to last 3 sts, skip last 3 sts; join with sl st in first cl. [12 cl and 6 ch-2 sps]
- Rnd 4: Sl st into ch-2 sp, (beg cl, ch 2, cl) in same sp, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp and into each ch-2 sp around; join with sl st in first cl. [12 cl and 6 ch-2 sps]
- Rnd 5: Rep Rnd 4.
- Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same cl as join and into each ch and cl around; join with sl st in first sc. Fasten Off. [24 sc]