The bouncy bubbly tote got it’s name from the beautiful stretchy textures that the stitch pattern creates. The texture is created by the bead stitch made in one round and a (sc, ch 1) in the next round. It’s a very time-consuming stitch to make, but oh so worth it when you are done.
As is, it’ll stretch to hold just about anything you want from beach towels to yarn projects. Or, line it with a matching material and use it as a large purse or a book bag for school. Plus, with a lining, it’ll be much more durable.
I crocheted mine in a solid color, but I think it would also look lovely if done in pretty rainbow colors; changing the color after every two rounds or so.
The crochet bag is started at the bottom and worked in the round in one piece from start to finish, including the handles. It’s confusing for many the way the bag bottom is started, so I put together a small tutorial to show how to get started with crocheting into the chains.
Bouncy Bubbly Tote
Skill Level: Intermediate
Materials:
Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton #4 – One 400g ball
Crochet Hook: H/8-5.00mm
Measurements
- Gauge: 3″ over 11 sts.
- Finished Size: Laying flat it measures 17″ wide by 14″ high not counting the handles.
Abbreviations:
Bead St = Bead Stitch
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Hk = Hook
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Yo = Yarn Over
Special Instructions:
Bead St: Insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through one lp on hk) twice, yo and pull through both lps on hk. When you work into the next stitch make sure the bobble is facing the right side. See Tutorial
Keep your ch-1’s loose as the bead st is worked directly into the ch-1, and NOT into the ch-1 sp.
Pattern Instructions:
Rnd 1: Loosely ch 32, sc in 2nd ch from hk and in next 29 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting chs, sc in free lps of next 29 chs, 2 sc in last ch; join with sl st in first sc. (64 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in same st as join, *sc in next 29 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st*, 3 sc in next st; rep from * to * once; join with sl st in first sc. (72 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 2 sts, join with sl st in first sc. (80 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next st, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 3 sts; join with sl st in first sc. (88 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 35 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 4 sts; join with sl st in first sc. (96 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 3 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 37 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 5 sts; join with sl st in first sc. (104 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 4 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 39 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 11 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 6 sts; join with sl st in first sc. (112 sts)
Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 5 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 41 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 13 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 7 sts; join with sl st in first sc. (120 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st in first sc. (120 sts)
Rnd 10: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in same st as join, *sk next st, (sc, ch 1) in next st, rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc. (60 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, bead st in next ch, *sc in next sc, bead st in next ch; rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc. (60 sc sts and 60 bead sts).
Rnd 12: Ch 1, (sc, ch 1) in same st as join, *sk next st, (sc, ch 1) in next sc st, rep from * around; join with sl st in first sc. (60 ch-1 sps)
Rnds 13-51: Rep rnds 11-12 ending with Rnd 11 at Rnd 51.
Rnd 52: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. (120 sts)
Handles
Lay the bag flat and mark off the handles as shown. I marked off 20 sts in the middle on each side of the bag, which I skipped for the handle. You should have 40 sts on each side of the markers.
Rnd 53: Ch 1, sc into same st as join and into each st up to marked st, *loosely ch 80 (or any number depending on how long or short you want the handles), sk the 20 sts marked off in the middle*, sc in next 40 sts; rep from * to * once; sc in remaining sts; join with sl st in first sc. (80 sts and 160 chs)
Note: To keep it even on both sides of the handle, work into the back bumps of the chs.
Rnd 54: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st and into each ch around; join with sl st in first sc. (240 sts)
Rnds 55-58: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. Fasten Off at last rnd.
If you enjoyed this bag pattern you might also enjoy a browse through more bag patterns here on CNC. Or, if you are in love with the stitch pattern, check out more patterns in the bouncy bubbly series.
This pattern is also available on Ravelry in a PDF format.
Help! The first round is confusing me. Because of the ‘3 sc in last ch’, when I get to the end of the line and have to turn and then ‘sc in free lps of next 29 chs’ I end up with more then one final chain to do a 2 sc in…what am I doing wrong? Also what does ‘…free lps’ i.e. free loops mean?
Hi Rochelle, The free loops are basically the opposite side of the starting chains. So when you insert your hook into the chain, you have two loops on top of the hook and one on the bottom. The one on the bottom is the free loop, which you will catch on your way back.
To ensure you end up with the correct amount of stitches, place a market at the bottom of the very first stitch that you make. this is the last free loop that you will crochet into.
Let me know if that helps or not.
Thanks so much,
Rhelena
Hi, I need help with how much yarn I need to get. I’m thinking of using Drops Paris, two threads, and crochet needle 5 mm. Do I really need 1400 g of yarn?
Thankyou for your help!
Hi Asa, Sorry for the confusion. That’s One 400gr ball of yarn. And if I remember correctly, I used most of what was in the skein. As for Drops Paris, I have never worked with it, so cannot give an answer as to how much you might need.
Thanks, that info helps a lot!
I’m so excited to make this bag! But one thing I wonder is how many chains should I make if I want to make just half the size of the bag? Thank you!
Fansi, that’s a good question! I would say start with about half and then do half the amount of rows? It sounds good when you say it like that, but you may need to experiment a bit before you get it the size you want. Sorry, I’m not of more help, but would love to know your outcome. :)