This crochet tote pattern is perfect for your everyday needs. Whether you’re headed out to the market, the grocery store, or whatever errands you need to run, this bag has got you covered! It’s a fairly good size, so it’ll hold all your basics and then some.
This will make for a nice gift bag for anyone on your list! Simply whip it up in their favorite colors, fill it up with some gifts and you’re all set for your next family event or gift exchange at the office. I did mine in a solid color, but you could just as easy add some stripes or color blocks.
I’ve included a short tutorial covering the basic steps. The free pattern is towards the bottom.
How Do You Crochet A Tote Bag
This crochet tote is started at the bottom and worked to the top in one piece, including the handles! That means there are no ends to weave in except where you start and finish your bag.
There are three steps to crocheting a bag: the bottom, the body and finally, the handles. The bottom and the handles are worked with single crochets. And the main stitch pattern for the body is the clustered V-stitch, which is a one row repeat. So it’s a fairly mindless bag to crochet!
The Bottom Of The Bag
To get started, make your chains as instructed in the free crochet tote bag pattern below, and then single crochet along both sides of the chains. This is the first round of your rectangle.
Here is a thorough photo tutorial on how to crochet on both sides of the chain.
Continue to work in rounds, increasing at the corners for a total of eight increases in each round. Each round is joined with a tight slip stitch join in order to maintain a perfect rectangle. You can do more or less repeats of this round to get the bag to the circumference that you want.
The Side Of The Bag
Once you reach the size that you want, work one round of single crochet stitches evenly around, without making any increases.
Then, begin working the main body, which in this case is the clustered v-stitch.
The cluster v-stitch is basically a double crochet decrease, chain two, and another double crochet decrease, all worked into the same stitch or space. It’s a very pretty stitch, but mindless to work on.
Continue with the stitch pattern until you have reach the height that you want for the tote. I made mine nice and tall, but if you plan on using this a market tote, or do not wish to line it, you may want to make it shorter as it’ll stretch out quite a bit if you leave it unlined.
Once you reach the length that you want, work one round of single crochets into each stitch and chain around.
Crocheting The Handles
Now it’s time to crochet the straps. As already mentioned, they are worked in one piece with the bag. The first step is to lay your bag flat. It does not matter where the seam falls. Crochet seams tend to spiral, so if yours is way off, it’s all good!
Just lay the bag flat and let the seam fall where ever it wants to.
Next, count off 18 stitches from one side and place the stitch marker into the 19th stitch. Do the same from the other side. You should have 20 stitches marked off in the middle, counting the marked stitches. Do this on both sides of the bag.
Then work one single crochet into each stitch up to the marked stitch. Make your chains for the handle, and then skip the 20 stitches marked off in the middle. Then repeat, single crochet into the stitch following the second stitch marker and crochet up to the next marker… etc.
Continue to work in rounds working one stitch into each stitch and chain around. About another 6 rounds gives you a nice width for the handles. I like to work these in single crochet stitches because that gives you a nice clean look, and also adds strength and durability.
If you made changes to the size of your bag, or if you need a bit more help on the handles, the following tutorial not only goes into more details, but also gives you a formula that you can use on any size bag. How to Make Crochet Bag Handles
Lining Your Bag
Regardless of what type of yarn you use, crocheted totes always tend to stretch out a lot if you don’t line them. Choose any strong fabric material that you like. It can be a match for your yarn or a contrasting yarn to bring out the stitch pattern. Cotton fabric is usually a solid choice.
You don’t need a sewing machine, as you can stitch it by hand. However, it can be a huge time saver! Here is a step-by-step tutorial on How to Line Your Crochet Bags. The tutorial also shows how to insert a zipper as well as how to sew pockets on the inside of the liner.
The Finished Size
The finished size as given in this free crochet pattern is 15.5″ wide by 15.5″ high not counting the handles. But, if you need to adjust the size, you can do so in a multiple of four.
Simply crochet the bag bottom to the size you need for a smaller or larger circumference. (Each round is at a multiple of four, so you can literally stop or continue with any number of rounds.) Then work the body to the height that you want. The handles also, are easy to adjust as needed.
I used Lily Sugar ‘n’ Cream, a medium worsted weight cotton yarn. This cotton is so perfect for bags because it’s strong and durable! And that is what you want in a bag as they sometimes can take a beating!
Better yet, one skein will give you a nice sized bag, such as this. I even had some left over!
With that said, if you plan on lining your bag, which is generally recommended, you can get away with an acrylic yarn or another type of yarn as well. The liner will keep the weight off the yarn, thus allowing for just about anything you like.
More Crochet Bag Patterns
- Puffy Spike Stitch Crochet Tote Bag
- Crochet Tote Bag Pattern
- Bouncy Bubbly Crochet Tote
- Crochet Beach Tote
- Over-The-Shoulder Crochet Bag
Clustered V-Stitch Crochet Tote Pattern
- Yarn: Lily Sugar 'N' Cream Yarn – Cone (Worsted Weight, #4; 100% Cotton; 400g/14oz; 616 meters/674yds) Color: Yellow, 1 cone
- Crochet Hook: H 5.00mm
- Other: Scissors, Yarn Needle.
- Gauge: 14 sc sts = 4".
- Finished Size (Laid Flat): 15.5" wide by 15.5" high not counting the handles.
- Beg Cl = Beginning Cluster
- Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
- Cl = Cluster
- Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
- Rep = Repeat
- Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
- Sc = Single Crochet
- Sl St = Slip Stitch
- Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
- St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
- YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitch Instructions
- Beg Cl: Ch 2, yo and insert hook into st/sp, yo and pull up a lp, [yo and pull through 2 lps] twice.
- Cl: [Yo and insert hook into st/sp, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps] twice, (3 lps on hook) yo and pull through all 3 lps.
- Rnd 1: Loosely ch 28, sc in 2nd ch from hook and into next 25 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting chs, sc in free lps of next 25 chs, 2 sc in last ch; join with sl st in first sc. [56 sts]
- Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in same st as join, *sc in next 25 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st*, 3 sc in next st; rep from * to * once; join with sl st in first sc. [64 sts]
- Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 2 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [72 sts]
- Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next st, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 29 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 3 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [80 sts]
- Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 4 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [88 sts]
- Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 3 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 5 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [96 sts]
- Rnd 7: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 4 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 35 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 11 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 6 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [104 sts]
- Rnd 8: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into next 5 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 37 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 13 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 7 sts; join with sl st in first sc. [112 sts]
- Rnd 9: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. [112 sts]
- Rnd 10: (Beg cl, ch 2, cl) in same st as join, *skip next 3 sts, (cl, ch2, cl) in next st; rep from * around to last 3 sts, skip last 3 sts; join with sl st in first cl. [56 cl and 28 ch-2 sps]
- Rnd 11: Sl st into ch-2 sp, (beg cl, ch 2, cl) in same sp, (cl, ch 2, cl) in next ch-2 sp and into each ch-2 sp around; join with sl st in first cl. [56 cl and 28 ch-2 sps]
- Rnds 12-27: Rep Rnd 11.
- Rnd 28: Ch 1, sc in same cl as join and into each ch and cl around; join with sl st in first sc. [112 sts] Fasten Off.
- Lay the bag flat to place your markers for the handles. Count over 18 sts on the sides of the bag and place stitch marker in 19th stitch. Counting the stitch markers, you should have 20 sts marked off in the middle. Do the same on the other side. Stitch markers should align on each side of the bag. Do not crochet into the 20 stitches in the middle. Here is a tutorial.
- Rnd 29: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st up to marked st, *loosely ch 60 (or any number depending on how long or short you want the handles), skip the 20 sts marked off in the middle*, sc in next 36 sts; rep from * to * once; then sc in remaining sts; join with sl st in first sc. [72 sts and 120 chs]
- Rnd 30: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st and ch around; join with sl st in first sc. [192 sts]
- Rnds 31-35: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. [192 sts] Fasten Off.
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