This puffy spike stitch crochet tote bag is the perfect bag for all your needs, It’s the perfect size for carrying your crochet projects, books, or anything you normally take along in a purse.
I used mine for taking my crochet projects to the beach last summer, and therefore did not line it. But if you want it for something heavier you can line it using this tutorial: How to line a crochet bag.
This bag has been in the making for over a year. It was last June when it was sent out for testing the first time. Then I forgot about it in between, but sent it out another few times for testing.
The bag is a bit problematic because in crochet the seam naturally spirals. But for this pattern you don’t want it to spiral. You want to keep the seam as straight as possible in order for the spikes to align above each other.
I crocheted mine using my straight seam method. This is my method and it works for me if I’m working with thicker yarns; however, that doesn’t mean it’s going to work for everyone, as I discovered with this bag.
My one tester went ahead and finished it regardless of the spiral that it created. She loved it, and naturally, so did I. Those who know me, know that I love anything that spirals. And I think her bag came out lovely, as you can see:
So if you can’t keep the seam straight it’s not the end of the world as you can still end up with a beautiful bag. :)
A couple testers came up with a few tips that might help in keeping the seam straight.
One tester did not single crochet into first stitch; instead she counted her chain 1 as her first stitch. And I swear her bag came out looking straighter than mine. So this is definitely worth a try.
And another tester suggested not to make the chain 1 and just single crochet into the first stitch. To be honest, I didn’t think this could be done, but it does work. It’s a bit awkward at first, but it totally eliminates the bulk of the chain-1. And I love it! I might even incorporate that into my future patterns.
And if none of the above work, my only other suggestion would be to just cheat! hehe, I’m not too keen on this when it comes to most patterns, but for this pattern it should be simple enough to do. Simply discard the written pattern in regards to when to work the spike stitch and let the previous spikes guide you. Just make sure that you end up with the same amount of stitches in between each spiked stitch,
So here’s the pattern. Good luck with it, and I would LOVE to see photos of your finished projects… and the best medium I can think of would be my Facebook page: CrochetN’Crafts
Puffy Spike Stitch Crochet Tote Bag
Skill Level: Intermediate
- Yarn: Red Heart Comfort or any similar worsted weight yarn. 2 Colors.
- Crochet Hook: H/8-5.00mm
- Gauge: 3″ across 10 sc sts and over 12 rows.
- Finished Size: When laying flat it measures 15″ across and 13″ from top to bottom.
RS = Right Side
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
FO = Fasten Off
Hk = Hook
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Pss = Puffy Spike Stitch
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitch Instructions:
Before making the pss, sk the first st and place st marker in next st to keep track of where to work the next sc st.
Yo, insert hk 2 sts to the right and 1 row down, yo and pull through (3 lps on hk); yo, insert hk 1 st to the right and 2 rows down, yo and pull through; yo, insert hk in st below and 3 rows down, yo and pull through; yo, insert hk 1 st to the left and 2 rows down, yo and pull through, yo, insert hk 2 sts to the left and 1 row down, yo and pull through; (11 lps on hk) yo and pull through all 11 lps, ch 1 to close the st.
For this bag you will want to keep your seam as straight as possible. Here is a tutorial on how to keep the seam fairly straight. Also, I find thicker yarn like Red Heart Comfort or Super Saver tend to work better than thinner yarns when it comes to keeping straight seams.
Instructions at beginning of rounds are to chain 1, then single crochet into the same stitch as join. However; one tester said she single crochets into next stitch and counts the chain 1 as her first stitch. That helped her to keep the seam straight. Another tester said to maybe go without the chain 1 at the start of the row. My advice is to do a few rounds and see what works for you. :)
Another option is to just cheat. Simply single crochet until you get up to the puffy spike stitch and then work the next spike right above. Just make sure that you end up with the same amount of stitches in between each spike.
Rnd 1: With first color, ch 28, sc in 2nd ch from hk and in next 25 chs, 3 sc in last ch. Working on opposite side of starting chs, sc in free lps of next 25 chs, 2 sc in last ch; join with sl st to first sc. (56 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, 3 sc in same st as join, *sc in next 25 sts, 3 sc in next st, sc in next st*, 3 sc in next st; rep from * to * once; join with sl st to first sc. (64 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in same st as join, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 27 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 2 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (72 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next st, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 29 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 5 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 3 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 2 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 31 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 7 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 4 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (88 sts)
Rnd 6: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 3 sts, *3 sc in next st, sc in next 33 sts, 3 sc in next st*, sc in next 9 sts; rep from * to * once, then sc in last 5 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (96 sts)
Rnds 7-12: Ch 1, sc into first st and into each st around.
Rnd 13: Join next color, ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 4 sts, *[pss, sc in marked st and in next 7 sts] 4 times, pss, sc in marked st**, sc in next 10 sts; rep from * to ** once, then sc in last 5 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (96 sts – 10 pss sts and 86 sc sts)
Note: When you get to the pss sts you will see 2 sps on top into which you can work into. Work into only one of those sps in order to maintain the correct amount of sts.
Rnds 14-17: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (96 sts)
Continue with rnds 13 to 17 until you have reached a desired height. FO.
I absolutely love these handles, but if you’d like to do something simpler, you might enjoy this quick and easy way to add bag handles.
Step-by-Step Instructions for the Handles
Lay the bag flat and mark off the second pss in from both sides. Mark off the 7 sts above the pss so that you have 1 extra stitch on each side of the pss as pictured below.
Here is a close-up:
Row 1 (RS): With RS of bag facing, join the next color in marked/first st to the right. Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 2 sts, work pss, sc in next 3 sts. (7 sts) Turn. (see images below)
First 3 single crochet stitches are complete. Then skip the next stitch and place your stitch marker into the next stitch.
The puff stitch is now complete.
Rows 2-5: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (7 sts) Turn. FO at last row.
Rows 6-25: Rep rows 1-5 making sure to join each new color with the RS facing. This leaves a lot of loose ends. To avoid this, you could turn and single crochet your way back instead of Fastening Off at row 5. Another option is to carry the yarn back along one of the rows and then up at the side.
Row 26: Rep row 1.
Row 27: Ch 1, sc in each st across. FO.
Repeat the above steps on the other marked pss on same side of bag but Do Not Fasten Off.
Second strap is complete.
Ch 1, join the two handle ends by slip stitching across. FO. Do not worry about which sides are facing because the seam will be covered with the seam covers later.
The 2 ends joined together.
Repeat the above on the other side of the bag.
Handle Seam Covers (make 2)
Using the same color you finished off with on the handles (in my case it was beige for one bag and black on the other), ch 7
Row 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hk and in each ch across. Turn. (7 sts)
Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in each st across. (7 sts) FO leaving a long tail for sewing the handles.
If you are going to line the bag and handles, now is the time to do it. Otherwise, you can go ahead and attach the handle seam covers to the handles.
To attach the covers place them over the seam on right side of handle. Fold the layers so the wrong sides are facing. Sew the two ends making sure to catch the bag handle edges as well. That way the cover stays on securely.
When you’re done, you have two bow-like handles.