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Credit or Gift Card Case

Here is a very simple crochet pattern for a credit card case. You can use it for your credit and other convenience cards, or use it to wrap up your gift cards.

Credit or Gift Card Case
Credit or Gift Card Case

Originally I made this with Patons Canadiana and a size 5mm hook. But after using it for a bit the case stretched out a lot making it awkward and unsafe to carry around with all my credit cards. So for the second one I decided to use a smaller hook and thicker yarn and it came out perfect! I used a 4.50mm hook and Red Heart Comfort.

This credit card sleeve is worked in a round, eliminating the need for sewing seams once completed. This may be confusing to some, so I created a photo tutorial on how to mark the rounds in order to avoid gaining excess stitches in the rounds.

As for keeping the seams straight, please refer to this tutorial if you run into problems with it going off track. It’s important the seam remains along the side otherwise the top part will be out of whack.

Also, please excuse the dirty button in the image. I bought a huge bag of used buttons several years ago, and I’m still picking through them. Even though I still have lots left, the pickings for good ones are getting pretty slim.

Pattern Instructions

Skill Level: Intermediate

Materials: Yarn: Red Heart Comfort, or any similar yarn.
Hook Size: 4.50mm
Other: Button 3/4″

Measurements:
Gauge: 1″ over 3 sts and 4 rows.
Finished Size: 4″ across. Suitable for Credit and Gift Cards.

Abbreviations:

Bead St = Bead Stitch
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
FO = Fasten Off
Hk = Hook
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single Crochet
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
YO = Yarn Over

Special Stitch Instructions:

Bead St: Insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through one lp on hk) twice, yo and pull through both lps on hk. When you work into the next stitch make sure the bobble is facing the right side.

Notes and Tips from Testers:

Crochet Pattern Instructions

Ch 12,

Rnd 1: Sc in 2nd ch from hk and in next 9 chs, 3 sc in last ch, working into free lps of beginning chs, sc in next 9 chs, 2 sc in last ch; join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts)

Rnd 2: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc.

Rnds 3-6: Same as rnd 2.

Rnd 7: Ch 1, work bead st in same st as join, sc in next st, *bead st in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first bead st.

Rnd 8: Same as rnd 2.

Flap (begin working in rows):

Row 1: Ch 1, sc in same st as join and in next 10 sts. Turn. (11 sts)

Rows 2-4: Ch 1, sc in first st and in each st across. Turn. (11 sts)

Row 5: Ch 1, sc in first st, *bead st in next st, sc in next st; rep from * across. Turn.

Row 6: Ch 1, sc in first 5 sts, ch 3, sk next st, sc in last 5 sts. Do Not FO, Turn and continue with edging.

Edging:

Ch 1, sc in first st and in each st and ch across up to last st, work 3 sc into last st, continue to work along edge, sc evenly around, work another 2 sc into same st as the first sc was made; join with sl st to first sc. FO.

Open Front View
Open Front View
Back View
Back View

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2 Comments

    1. Yes it should be fairly easy to do. Simply increase the beginning chains in any multiple of two, then continue with more rounds until it is high enough. Hope it works out good for you. :)

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