This crochet brim hat pattern comes with a cowl to match. It’s a lovely set for winter, but the hat can also be worn in the summer if crocheted in a cotton yarn. Simply choose your material to match the gauge to make your hat for the season of choice – acrylic for the winter and cotton for the summer.
The set is worked up in the crochet cross stitch, which gives it a nice lace and texture. As for the brim, it somewhat hugs the head with just enough flare to still keep you warm in the winter while keeping the sun out of your eyes.
To go with this set you might enjoy this ribbed handbag. Or, you might also enjoy my other cross stitch Hat and Cowl set. Both are worked in the cross stitch, but the style and hook placement are slightly different.
Cross Stitch Crochet Brim Hat
This hat and cowl set was crocheted with Red Heart Shimmer yarn, which has been discontinued. However, it was a medium weight yarn, so anything similar that matches the gauge can be used to whip this up.
Skill Level: Intermediate
Materials:
Yarn: Red Heart Shimmer – #4 medium worsted weight. One 3.5oz/100g ball
Crochet Hook: 4.00mm or hook needed to obtain gauge.
Other: Stitch Marker
Measurements
Gauge: 3.25″ over first 4 rnds.
Finished Size: Measures 23″ around bottom just above the brim.
Abbreviations:
Bl/bls = Back Loop/Back Loops
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Dc = Double Crochet
Fl = Front Loops
FO = Fasten Off
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Prev = Previous
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Rsc = Reverse Single Crochet
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
Notes:
The first cross stitch in rounds 4 and 10 is worked into the first and last stitches of the round. This is the quick and easy way but it results in a spiral, yet hardly noticeable, seam. If you want to keep the seam straight, sl st into the second stitch, dc into same st, then backtrack and dc into first st. Then follow the pattern to complete the round.
Make sure to count stitches after each round to maintain proper stitch count.
Hat Instructions
Ch 4, join with sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, work 2 sc into first ch and into each ch around; join with sl st to first sc. (8 sc)
Rnd 2: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc once more in first st, work 2 dc into next st and into each st around; join with sl st to first dc. (16 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, work 2 sc into first st and into each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (32 sts)
Rnd 4: Pull up a lp as high as a dc, dc in first st, back track and dc in last st of prev rnd (first cross stitch made), *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first dc. (32 sts)
Rnd 5: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next st, *2 sc in next st, sc in next st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first sc. (48 sts)
Rnd 6: Same as rnd 4. (48 sts)
Rnd 7: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 2 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 2 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st to first sc. (64 sts)
Rnd 8: Same as rnd 4. (64 sts)
Rnd 9: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 3 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 3 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st to first sc. (80sts)
Working in Even Pattern
Rnd 10: Pull up a lp as high as a dc, dc in first st, back track and dc in last st of prev rnd (first cross stitch made), *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first dc. (80 sts)
Rnd 11: Ch 1, sc in first st and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Rnds 12-17: Continue with rnds 10 and 11. Mark last st of rnd 17 for later.
Rnds 18-20: Working into bl only, ch 1, sc in first st and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Brim:
Rnd 21: Working into both lps, ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 4 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 4 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st to first sc. (96 sts)
Rnd 22: Same as rnd 10. (96 sts)
Rnd 23: Ch 1, 2 sc in first st, sc in next 11 sts, *2 sc in next st, sc in next 11 sts; rep from * around; join with sl st to first sc. (104 sts)
Rnds 24-25: Rep rnds 10 and 11. FO. (104 sts)
Note: Ribbing is optional because working into the back loops of rounds 18 to 20 creates a nice decorative texture on its own. See image below on the variation without the ribbing.
Ribbing for Rnds 17-19: Join yarn to front lp of marked st in rnd 17, *ch 1, working into fl only, rsc in same st and in each st around; join with sl st to first rsc. FO. Rep from * for rnds 18 and 19 fastening off and re-joining yarn to fl of each rnd.
Cross Stitch Cowl
Measurements
Gauge: 3″ across 10 sts and over 8 pattern rows.
Finished Size: Measures 4.5″ high by 11.5″ wide when laying flat.
Notes:
The first cross stitch in round 2 is worked into the first and last stitches of the round. This is the quick and easy way but it results in a spiral, yet hardly noticeable, seam. If you want to keep the seam straight, sl st into the second stitch, dc into same st, then backtrack and dc into first st. Then follow the pattern to complete the round.
Make sure to count stitches after each round to maintain proper stitch count.
Pattern Instructions:
Ch 80 (or any multiple of 2); join with sl st to first ch being careful not to twist chs.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, sc in first ch and in each ch around; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Rnd 2: Pull up a loop as high as a dc, dc in first st, back track and dc in last st of prev rnd (first cross stitch made), *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st to first dc. (80 sts = 40 cross sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (80 sts)
Rep rnds 2 and 3 five times. FO.
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