Here is another free crochet fingerless gloves pattern. Use up your yarn stash and make them in stripes, or in one color as shown. This one is worked up in what I call the bead stitch. What can I say except that I’m in love with the
The great thing about fingerless gloves is that they warm your hands and wrists while keeping your fingers free. Thus, they are perfect for working at the computer, reading a book, or while lounging around the home. You might need some practice, but you could also use them while crocheting. I wear them sometimes, but I find that it’s a bit awkward wearing the left glove because it interferes with the way I hold my yarn. With more practice though I might figure out how to work around that.
These gloves fit small hands, but if you need a larger size, use a larger hook or thicker yarn. Using the recommended yarn and a larger hook will probably be your best option as that will increase the stretch in the fabric.
Also, these gloves are designed to fit both the left and right hands. That way the seam falls into the same place on each hand.
Bead Stitch Free Crochet Fingerless Gloves
Skill Level: Easy
- Yarn: Caron Simply Soft (Worsted Weight, #4; 100% acrylic; 6 oz/170.1g; 315yds/288m) – 1 ball
- Hook Size: 4.50mm
- Gauge: 2″ across 7 sts and over the first 7 rounds in pattern.
- Finished Size: When laying flat, they measure 3.25″ across and 5.25″ from top to bottom. Will fit children, teen or adult small. If you need a larger size, use a larger hook or increase beginning chains in any multiple of 2.
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
FO = Fasten Off
Hdc = Half Double Crochet
Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
Rep = Repeat
Rnd/Rnds = Round/Rounds
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitch Instructions
Bead Stitch: Insert hk into indicated st, yo and pull through, (yo and pull through one lp on hk) twice, yo and pull through both lps on hk. When you work into the next stitch make sure the bobble is facing the right side.
The Ch-1’s made at the beginning of each round do not count as a stitch. All other chain-1 spaces (ch-1 sps) are referred to as stitches (sts) in this pattern.
Ch 24, join with sl st to form ring.
Rnd 1: Ch 1, working into back bumps, sc in first ch and in each ch around; join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Rnd 2: Ch 1, work bead st in first st, *sc in next st, bead st in next st; rep from * around to last st; sc in last st; join with sl st to first bead st. (24 sts)
Rnd 3: Ch 1, sc in first st and in each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts)
Rnd 4: Ch 1, (hdc, ch 1) in first st, *sk next st, (hdc, ch 1) in next st; rep from * around to last st; sk last st; join with sl st to first hdc. (12 ch-1 sps)
Rnd 5: Same as rnd 3.
Rnds 6-12: Rep rnds 2 to 5 once, then rep rnds 2-4 once.
Rnd 13: Working Thumb Opening (Left Hand Only), Ch 1, sc in first st, ch 6, sk next 6 sts, sc in next st and into each st around; join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts counting your chs.)
Rnd 13: Working Thumb Opening (Right Hand Only), Ch 1, sc in first st and into each st around up to last 6 sts; ch 6, sk last 6 sts; join with sl st to first sc. (24 sts counting your chs.)
Rnds 14-19: Rep rnds 2-5 once, then rep rnds 2-3 once. FO.
Rnd 1: Join yarn along thumb edge. Ch 1, work 12 sc evenly around the thumb opening; join with sl st to first sc.
Rnds 2-3: Rep rnds 2-3 above. (12 sts) FO.