This hooded cowl is crocheted up in the crossed stitch, which means it’s got a lacy look to it. And although it’ll be nice and cozy around the neck, the hood part of it may not be as cozy. If you have a high tolerance for the cold, it might be all you need. But for those who, like me, need to keep extra warm, you can line the inside of the hood with a matching or contrasting material.
As for me, I didn’t have time to line it, and thus ended up wearing the hood as is over a winter beanie for an extra layer against the cold. This happened last winter, and although some thought I’d lost my marbles for fashion, it kept me super warm. The beanie came down over my forehead and the hood was there as an extra layer of warmth.
Anyhow, the pattern is given in one size only. But I’ve included a few notes to help you adjust this for a custom fit. Hope you’ll enjoy and Keep Warm!
If you are a beginner, you might also want to check out the Crochet Hooded Scarf, Beginner Hooded Scarf, or the Beginner Chain Stitch Hooded Scarf, as all of them are beginner friendly. Or, for something a bit more advanced you might enjoy this hooded scarf with pockets.
Criss Cross Hooded Cowl
Skill Level: Easy/Intermediate
Yarn: Loops and Threads Charisma #5 – Three 3.5oz balls.
Crochet Hook: N/9mm
You could also use a worsted weight yarn and an I/5.50mm crochet hook. Then start your chains at 40 for the hood and work a total of 25 rounds. At the same time, follow the instructions for a custom fit to ensure it comes out to the size you need.
Gauge: 2″ Over 4 sts using a #5 yarn and 9mm hook.
Finished Size: Fits adult small, but can be adjusted to any size needed.
RS = Right Side
WS = Wrong Side
Bl/blo = Back Loop/Back Loops Only
Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
Dc = Double Crochet
Flo = Front Loops Only
FO = Fasten Off
Rep = Repeat
Sc = Single Crochet
Sk = Skip
Sl St = Slip Stitch
St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
The cowl is worked in one piece to eliminate any seams.
The hood is started at the back of the head. So you want your beginning chains to reach from the top of your head to the top of your shoulders when deciding your size. See image below.
Row 1 is worked on both sides of the starting chains. You begin in 2nd ch from hook and sc in each ch across to last ch. Work 4 sc in last ch, then turn and sc into the free loops of beginning chs. It’s started just as if you’re working in a round, but it’s not joined as in a round. Instead, once all chs have been worked into on both sides, you will turn and begin working in rows.
You will work in rows until the hood reaches just past your face. Then without fastening off, you make a chain for the cowl. Join the chains to the bottom edge of hood, and begin working along the bottom edge (row ends) of the hood, and then into the chains to establish the first round for the cowl. (See image below.)
Ch 26, (or any multiple of 2 to reach from the shoulder to the center of the head. See image above in notes).
Row 1 (WS): Sc in 2nd ch from hook and into next 23 chs, 4 sc in last ch, working on opposite side of starting chs, sc in free loops of next 24 chs across. (52 sts) Do NOT Join. TURN, and begin working in rows.
Row 2 (RS): Ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in blo, *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * across; dc in last st. TURN (52 sts, OR, 2 dc and 25 crossed sts)
Row 3 (WS): Working in flo, ch 1, sc in first st and into each st across. (52 sts) TURN.
Rows 4-15: Rep rows 2 & 3 until the hood is wide enough to reach past the face as desired. Do not Fasten Off at last row, but continue with cowl. Mark last row as WS and turn hood so the RS faces out.
Note: Row 15, or last row of hood, is NOT crocheted into. Instead, the cowl is attached to the bottom edge (row ends) of the hood. Image below shows the hood upside down, but you can see the chains and how the cowl is worked into the bottom of hood.
Ch 64, or any multiple of 2. Being careful not to twist chs, sl st into opposite corner of hood.
NOTE: This cowl was crocheted for myself, who likes to have everything nice and snug and cozy. :) So if you want a looser/longer cowl, ch at least 80 or more depending on how long you want the cowl. Consider also the amount of stitches that you’ll be working into the bottom edge of hood when deciding on how many chs to make.
You could also go with 10 or 20 chs to eliminate the ability to wrap it around … if you wanted to.
Rnd 1: With RS facing, ch 1, sc evenly across bottom edge (row ends) of hood. (I worked in 44 sts.) Working in back bumps of chs, sc in each ch; join with sl st in first sc. 108 sts. Do Not Turn at this round or thereafter.
Rnd 2: (Mark bl of st where join was made.) Sl st into bl of next st, ch 3 (counts as first dc), working in blo, backtrack and dc in same st as where join was made (marked st); *sk next st, dc in next st, dc in skipped st; rep from * around; join with sl st in first dc. 54 crossed sts. Do Not Turn.
Rnd 3: Working in blo, ch 1, sc in same st as join and into each st around; join with sl st in first sc. Do Not Turn. (108 sts)
Rnds 4-9: Rep rnds 2-3. Fasten Off.
Last but not least, you might also enjoy the collection of free hooded scarf crochet patterns at CPB.