This is an easy cotton dishcloth pattern. I worked this without an edging, but I found a way to obtain a straighter edge, so it’s up to you whether or not you want to add one.
My secret to the straighter edge is to increase at the beginning of the row and then to decrease at the end of the row. I found that not only does this give you a straighter edge, but it also helps to reduce the gap that you sometimes get. I love this technique, but let me know in the comments below what your thoughts are.
About The Yarn
My go-to yarn for dishcloths is Bernat Handicrafter Cotton, which is very similar to Lily Sugar ‘n Cream. Both are a worsted weight #4 yarn made with 100% cotton material. The yarn is durable and perfect for scrubbing.
The only downside to this yarn is that it can take a while to dry, making it important to always hang it up after each use.
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Eyelet Rows Cotton Dishcloth Pattern
Skill Level
Materials
- Yarn: Bernat Handicrafter Cotton (Worsted Weight, #4; 100% Cotton; 1.75 oz/50g; 80yds/73m) 1 ball
- Crochet Hook: I 5.50mm
- Other: Scissors, Yarn Needle.
Finished Size
- 7.25" by 7.25".
Abbreviations
- Ch/Chs = Chain/Chains
- Dc = Double Crochet
- Dc2tog = Double Crochet 2 Together
- Hdc = Half Double Crochet
- Hdc2tog = Half Double Crochet 2 Together
- Hk = Hook
- Lp/Lps = Loop/Loops
- Sk = Skip
- Sp/Sps = Space/Spaces
- St/Sts = Stitch/Stitches
- YO = Yarn Over
Special Stitch Instructions
- Dc2tog: Yo and insert hk into the first st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps on hk (2 lps left). Yo and insert hk into the next st, yo and pull up a lp, yo and pull through 2 lps (3 lps left on hk). Yo and pull through all 3 lps on hk.
- Hdc2tog: Yo and insert hk into the first st, yo and pull up a lp; yo and insert hk into the next st, yo and pull up a lp (5 lps on hk); yo and pull through all 5 lps on hk.
Notes
- The chains made at the beginning of each row count as your first stitch made. Another stitch is worked into the first stitch for a total of 2 stitches made in the first stitch.
- Then at the end of the row, a decrease is made over the last 2 stitches to maintain the stitch count. This helps to keep the edges straighter.
Instructions
- Loosely ch 24, or any multiple of 2.
- Row 1: Working into back bumps, dc in 4th ch from hk and into each ch across. (Skipped chs count as first st.) Turn. [22 sts]
- Row 2: Ch 2 (counts as first hdc), (hdc, ch 1) in first st, *sk next st, (hdc, ch 1) in next st; repeat from * across to the last 3 sts, sk next st, hdc2tog over the last 2 sts. Turn. [10 ch-1 sps]
- Row 3: Ch 3 (counts as first dc), dc in first st and in each st and ch across to last 2 sts; dc2tog over last 2 sts. Turn. [22 sts]
- Rows 4-13: Repeat rows 2 and 3. Fasten Off at last row.
Video
Hi Rhelena:
I just found your website and watched your tutorial for the Eyelet Rows Cotton Dishcloth Pattern. It’s a lovely dishcloth/washcloth and I particularly became interested when you said you had a way of straightening the edges but increasing and decreasing at the beginnings and ends of rows. I really like your method and would love to see you incorporate it in other patterns you design. Does it work with any foundation chain count, even or odd? Certain stitch patterns? If you can give a brief rule of thumb as to when it can be used, that would be so helpful. I always love ways to keep my edges straight and to avoid that chain 3 turning chain gap, if possible! Also, do you happen to have a YouTube channel? I looked but couldn’t find it…. I wanted to subscribe. Thanks for sharing this pattern and your ingenious way to keep the edges straight. I’ll be checking back with your blog regularly from now on. 😊 Charlotte from Phoenix ☀️🌵🌴🐍
Hi Charlotte, Thank you so much for the feedback. It should work with any stitch count as long as you are able to add that one extra stitch at the beginning and then decrease at the end of each row. As for different stitch patterns, I really can’t say on whether or not it would work.
My YouTube channel is here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCsAo-uRMq1T1Fg0v70STKWg/
Thanks again :)
Hi there – I for one really like that the edges are straighter due to the increases and decreases on the ends. I don’t have to do a 2nd boarder. Thanks for showing that and I will be using it from now on.